Published: September 16, 2006 08:56 pm      

Salina’s a cozy place to stay

EDMOND — I’m sure Salina, Kan., isn’t the first place that comes to your mind as a cool getaway. It wasn’t my first thought, but I was wrong.

Salina, population 45,000, is situated at the crossroads of Interstate 70 and I-35. It’s easy to fly by on the interstates and miss a truly nifty little city.

My husband, Jack, and I started with breakfast at Capers Café and Bakery. Meet the owner, Murray Gorman, and you’ll quickly discover you may be in Kansas but not in the boonies. His restaurant is named Capers after the main export of the island of Salina, off the coast of Italy.

His cooking philosophy also is distinctly Mediterranean — a lot of fresh vegetables and fruits, lean meats, olive oil and — yep — capers. The restaurant also has special events like wine and beer tastings, jazz events and poetry readings.

Our next stop was the Yesteryear Museum, just north of I-70, just west of Kansas Highway 143. This museum is a combination grandma’s attic and grandpa’s barn — antique household appliances, farm machinery, bricks, anvils, shaving mugs, cameras, dental office teeth samples — you get the picture.

The museum’s Harvest in the Fall Festival, Oct. 14-15, features a lot of agriculture-based demonstrations, a draft-horse pull and a tractor pull.

We then headed into the countryside southwest of Salina to go to the zoo. And what a zoo! The zoo is home to more than 100 species of animals including rhinos, giraffes, lions and tigers and it’s accredited by the American Zoo and Aquarium Association.

There’s also a wildlife museum that allows guests to enjoy animal displays mounted in habitats from Africa to the North Pole. The animals came from other collections, including the Smithsonian. The three-dimensional aspects of the displays blend seamlessly into the painted backdrops. Animatronic human figures in the displays help tell the story of the habitats.

We’d spent several hours on the zoo and museums and it was time to eat again. My inner gourmet was overcome by my love of nostalgia and the Cozy Inn won out. This tiny, six-stool-and-standing-room burger joint has been in business in the same location since 1922. Baby burgers are sold by the sack, just like they always were, but the price has gone from a nickel to 75 cents a piece.

After lunch, I dropped Jack off at the Endiron Estate Bed and Breakfast. This gave me a chance to do some retail research. Downtown Salina’s an attractive place to shop with antique stores and interesting shops lining the main street. The cool neon sign in the window of the Bluestem Gallery caught my eye.

Next door is Laura’s Antiques, a fairly new store on the block. The stock was clean and neatly arranged and included the most complete collection of Jewel Tea’s Autumn Leaf pottery I’ve ever seen.

South and west of there is a collection of shops known as “The Shops around the Corner.” All owned by women entrepreneurs, they include Expressions Salon and Spa, Simply Baby and More, Best Kept Secret and Scrapbook Chic. From a round, canopied baby crib with its own chandelier to funky, chunky jewelry or elegant evening bags, you’re going to find something interesting here.

I stopped for a peek inside the beautiful, art deco Stiefel Theatre for the Performing Arts. This restored 1931 movie palace is the home of the Salina Symphony and host to an exciting series of presentations including the Manhattan Transfer Christmas Show set for Dec. 9. And a family fun event, Mammoth Follies planned for Feb. 23, features enormous puppets like Bessie, the 27-foot long brontosaurus.

Down the street is the Salina Art Center. It’s as sleek and contemporary a space as you’ll find anywhere. It’s closed right now, but will open Sept. 30 with an exhibit titled, “A Changing Fabric,” featuring the works of four fiber artists.

My last stop was the Smoky Hill Museum, an excellent local history facility. One of the most impressive exhibits features a working flour mill and explores Salina’s long ties to the milling industry. Children will love the discovery area where they are called upon to solve history mysteries.

By now, I was ready to join Jack at the bed and breakfast. Our roomy, whirlpool tub was a treat to my aching back and feet. Built in 1906, the two-story, neo-colonial home has plenty of contemporary amenities. An attractive room, an excellent bed, a gourmet breakfast and a most congenial hostess — what more could you want?

Instead of dinner, we headed north to the Smoky Hill Vineyards and Winery for its Thursday night treat. Hors d’oeuvres at $7.95 and a great wine selection made a marvelous dinner substitute as we enjoyed the early evening air on the patio.

After a good night’s sleep and a tasty breakfast, we were ready to head the 236 miles home. Can I recommend Salina? You bet! Just don’t try to see it all in one day.

(Travel writer and photographer Elaine Warner is a freelance writer living in Edmond and may be reached via e-mail at okietravel@yahoo.com.)