The Edmond Sun

Food

April 8, 2013

The Rise of American Rosé

EDMOND — For the past three decades, wine enthusiasts have shuddered when presented with American rosé.

The reason? Domestic rosé long has been associated with the cheap, sweet “blush” wines that became popular in the 1980s, like Sutter Home’s White Zinfandel. While these wines will always have fans, they’re quite different from the dry, refreshing Old World rosés that oenophiles crave when the weather warms.

In recent years, however, American vintners have started to produce rosés that easily can rival the Old World’s best offerings. With summer just around the corner, these wines are worth exploring — and stocking up on.

Rosé is made in one of two ways.

In the first method, the winemaker crushes red wine grapes and leaves the juice in contact with the skin for a brief period, typically one or two days. She then discards the skins, allowing the juice to finish fermentation on its own. Thanks to the short period of skin contact, the wine retains some color.

In the second method, rosé is a byproduct of red wine fermentation. Red wine obtains color, tannin, structure and flavors from grape skins. If a winemaker wants to increase the skin-to-juice ratio during fermentation, she can simply remove some juice at an early stage. This pink juice can be fermented separately to create rosé. This method is known as saignée.

Since rosé is the only goal with the first method, some oenophiles call such wine “true” rosé. These wines typically have more texture and higher acid than saignées, so can easily pair with a variety of foods.

True rosé has been a part of life in Europe for centuries. In Provence, France, residents and visitors alike long have recognized the brilliance of pairing rosé with warm weather and coastal cuisine.

The Old World remains the source of countless fantastic rosés. But many domestic producers are now making wines that are just as delicious.

One of my favorites comes from Arnot-Roberts, a small producer in California. Made from Touriga Nacional, a Portuguese variety best known for its large role in Port, the Arnot-Roberts rosé is delicate, crisp and structured, and packed with complexity.

Elsewhere in California, other favorites come from Copain, Peay and Radio-Coteau’s County Line, three producers that utilize Pinot Noir to make bright, brilliantly seductive wines. Another comes from Matthiasson, a Napa Valley producer that uses Syrah to produce a wine that’s stony, refreshing, and bursting with ripe, citrus flavors. All four are worth seeking out.

California isn’t the only source of top-notch domestic rosé.

In Oregon’s Willamette Valley, Paonzi Vineyards makes one that’s consistently delightful. In New York, Channing Daughters on Long Island has gained a cult following for its offerings — this year, the winery produced seven rosés! Many wineries in New York’s Finger Lakes are also gaining recognition for their bottlings. The list goes on.

Of course, America remains awash in cloyingly sweet pink wine. And it’s still too easy to accidently wind up with a bottle that tastes more like Kool-Aid than wine. But more and more producers are taking rosé seriously, so it’s easier than ever before to find a crisp, refreshing summertime quaffer that’s worth stocking up on.

 

David White, a wine writer, is the founder and editor of Terroirist.com. His columns are housed at Palate Press: The Online Wine Magazine (PalatePress.com).

1
Text Only
Food
  • oil infographic[1].png Easy on the coconut oil

    These days, it seems like coconut oil is soaking up credit for its positive affect on a wide range of health conditions. But, still developing science around the popular oil tells a little different story.
    “We know all saturated fats are not created equally, but there’s no evidence that coconut oil is better or healthier than other vegetable oils,” said Janice Hermann, Oklahoma State University Cooperative Extension nutrition specialist.

    April 16, 2014 1 Photo

  • brisket2.jpg Food Network show visits Guthrie for ’89er Days

    Guthrie’s annual ’89er Days Celebration provides a variety of activities for people to enjoy including a carnival, rodeo, parade and lots of food vendors.
    This year, visitors at the 84th annual event, which runs Tuesday through Saturday, will notice an added bonus when a film crew from the new television series “Carnival Eats” will be in town filming for its inaugural episode.

    April 15, 2014 1 Photo

  • Salads Spring is for salads, but make healthy choices of ingredients

    Whether you want to enjoy a salad at your favorite restaurant, breeze through a salad bar for a quick and nutritious lunch, or stock your fridge and pantry so you can make a bountiful salad at home, one thing is for sure: Now is the time to do it.
    While much of the U.S. is at least a few weeks away from harvesting local lettuce, our appetites — oh, really, our very souls — are ready to put the long cold winter behind us and put the stock pot in a dark closet.

    April 14, 2014 1 Photo

  • Easter eggs The hottest Easter egg shades and styles with food color

    This season’s Easter eggs are getting a makeover with a wide variety of must-have spring colors and designs. McCormick is offering new color palettes and dyeing techniques, including a painting method that achieves a watercolor effect. These Easter eggs will look too good to hide in baskets — so put them front-and-center in your seasonal décor.
    “With our new colors and design tips, it’s easy to make fashionable Easter eggs. Plus, it’s fun to experiment with different color combinations you can’t get from a kit — like our take on Radiant Orchid, the Pantone® color of the year,” said Mary Beth Harrington of the McCormick Kitchens.

    April 7, 2014 1 Photo

  • Get a taste of George Washington’s Peach Brandy

    Everything is just peachy at the George Washington Distillery in Mount Vernon, Va.
    The historic distillery and museum, open from April until October each year, will offer peach brandy for sale beginning April 1, with the recipe straight from the 18th century records and distilling methods of Washington himself.

    April 7, 2014

  • Magnetic board a nifty new way to keep knives

    The magnetic board is not a new idea, but there’s a new version on the market that’s worth a look.

    April 7, 2014

  • Trading a desk job for one in the vineyards

    Finding Shane Finley was easy.
    Via email, we planned to meet for lunch at Bourbon Steak in Washington, D.C., a restaurant that’s housed at the Four Seasons. While the steakhouse is known for having one of the best wine lists in the city, it’s typically filled with tee-totaling lobbyists and power brokers during the day. So when I spotted a redheaded 30-something with unkempt hair wearing jeans and an untucked flannel, I figured it was Shane.
    I was right.

    April 7, 2014

  • Food Delectable dessert indulgences

    Dessert is an indulgence, and when you delight in the taste, texture and aroma of a decadent sweet treat, you savor every bite. It is easy to get lost in the flavor and fragrance of rich chocolate or creamy caramel.

    February 10, 2014 1 Photo

  • Pears 1 Simple weeknight suppers with pears

    “Hectic family schedules don’t have to get in the way of serving up tasty and healthy weeknight dinners,” explains leading nutrition expert, cookbook author and television star Ellie Krieger, author of “Weeknight Wonders: Delicious, Healthy Dinners in 30 Minutes or Less.”

    February 3, 2014 3 Photos

  • pm_the biggest loser.jpg Edmond’s ‘Biggest Loser’ moves to final round

    Edmond’s David Brown has reached one more plateau in his quest to lose weight. Tuesday the announcement was made that he had made it to the final three in The Biggest Loser contest.
    The season’s three finalists who will weigh-in for the $250,000 grand prize and the title of “The Biggest Loser” during next week’s live finale broadcast include: Brown, a 43-year-old construction company project manager and phone company social commerce leader, Bobby Saleem, a 28-year-old attorney from Chicago, Ill.; and Rachel Frederickon, a 24-year-old voice-over artist from Los Angeles, Calif.  
    In the end, Rachel finished in first place with a time of one hour and 32 minutes in the Triathlon. She was immune from elimination at the upcoming weigh-in. Brown finished second.
    Brown said the most nerve wracking part was the weigh-in because he always weighed in last.
     Brown said the hardest work he did was emotional. “From week to week I was having to confront and overcome different fears,” Brown said. “I was pushing myself every day to the utmost limits. When you are at the end of your rope physically you have to deal with your emotions. I was journaling and praying a lot.”

    January 29, 2014 1 Photo